For years, Coach was out of the trend cycle, deemed as a brand for ‘older’ people, with almost no appeal to the younger generations. However, around 2021, Coach had successfully taken over social media and the fashion preferences of GenZ, with the launch of their Pillow Tabby. Much of the success and comeback can be attributed to Stuart Vevers, whose time and experience formerly at Mulberry and Loewe, has influenced many of the new Coach releases.
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Sticking to its ‘accessible luxury’ status, Coach remains expensive enough that they’re still a reach for many people, but not so expensive that they’re completely out of reach for many, which may attribute to the recent trend of democratising luxury, a tactic adopted by luxury brands to instil a space in the minds of their future consumers, particularly Gen Z. It’s almost like how every young boy dreams of driving a Mercedes even in their pre-teens, which successfully places the brand as a dream to be obtained by many.
The question remains, was this sudden comeback just a play of design and branding? The interesting answer to this is that GenZ didn’t fall for Coach just by accident. The brand successfully used data to make its Coach Tabby bag a hit with the youngsters.
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It was in 2021, when the brand set a strategic goal, to appeal to what they dubbed a “timeless GenZ” consumer, a shopper with classy style, investing in purchases and who the brand felt they could win over. While behind-the-scenes the brand was revamping its image after being acquired by Tapestry, a New York based luxury fashion holding company, public perception takes time to change.
In line with their goal, Coach began meeting up with shoppers in order to learn more about its target consumer. According to the data collected, it was noted that the Tabby was bringing in young shoppers, who went on to have a high lifetime value for Coach. This led to the brand releasing various versions, styles, and sizes of the Coach Tabby. They then took this bag and built out marketing strategies and campaigns around it, including the “Courage to Be Real” campaign with Lil Nas X, followed by the “In My Tabby” and “Wear Your Shine” campaigns while continually introducing new Tabby varieties like the Soft Tabby, the Tabby Crossbody Wristlet, the Tabby Messenger and the Tabby Box Bag. All this while they kept testing and refining their strategy and designs to make sure the product and messaging were resonating.
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Their strategy also contributed to the enhancement of the overall perception of Coach handbags among younger consumers. According to the biannual “Taking Stock With Teens” report by Piper Sandler, in the initial half of 2021, Coach held the fourth position as the preferred handbag brand among teenage girls in the United States. However, by the corresponding period in 2022, it ascended to the top spot, maintaining its leading position until the conclusion of 2023, with a growing percentage of respondents selecting it as their favourite brand. A revival of a vintage 1970s bag tailored for contemporary tastes, the Coach Tabby has emerged as a notable trendsetter. Garnering a remarkable 32.2 million views on TikTok under the hashtag #coachtabby and an additional 5.6 million under #coachtabbybag, while also fostering a burgeoning community of loyal customers known as ‘Coachies’, the Tabby has firmly established itself as an ‘It’ girl bag.
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In line with increasing importance of sustainability to a luxury purchaser, Coach has also introduced the Coachtopia Collection, a line of recycled and restored Coach products. Coach additionally provides their COACH (Re)Loved initiative, facilitating the purchase and sale of vintage used handbags at more accessible prices while also addressing the issue of fashion waste. Customers can explore various options such as vintage Coach items, “Coach Remade” bags (previously owned bags reconstructed into new designs), “Coach Restored” bags (previously owned bags refurbished to pristine condition), and “Coach Upcrafted” bags (lightly used bags reimagined by artisans into unique designs) through the (Re)LOVED platform.
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A significant factor contributing to their effective it-bag marketing strategy has been their adept use of social media platforms. Upon assuming his role, Vevers made a notable decision by appointing Selena Gomez as a brand ambassador. Leveraging Gomez’s considerable popularity and Coach’s gradual resurgence in pop culture, she became a highly successful advocate for the brand, eventually collaborating on multiple collections titled “Coach x Selena Gomez.” The Pillow Tabby bag experienced a substantial surge in interest following a significant promotion on TikTok. With Jennifer Lopez also endorsing the Pillow Tabby campaign, its popularity soared even further.
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Coach achieved a remarkable feat by rejuvenating a brand that had been largely overlooked, relegated to thrift store shelves and the closets of those who came of age in the early 2000s. While drawing inspiration from other brands was crucial, Coach preserved the iconic accessibility that characterised its identity two decades ago. This revitalization was not just a happenstance but a carefully planned strategy, positioning Coach to remain relevant for the foreseeable future.